In Due Season

Mushrooms are a food that, for me, speak directly of the earth. Though not technically in season right now, there is a something in their earthy brown shapes and flavors that lends itself well to Lenten foods. They seem to combine the hope of growth and the delight of unexpected bounty with the somber frugality of winter. I imagine that stumbling across mushrooms in the forest must be wonderful; that these humble, musty, inconspicuous morsels can be so flavorful and sustaining is nothing short of miraculous.

There are few places so well associated with mushrooms as Russia, where it is said that mushroom hunting is a passion across the whole population, almost a “national sport.” Unsurprisingly, Russian Lenten recipes often include mushrooms. Mushrooms can easily be dried or frozen, and thereby become sustenance for a whole winter– and at the end of the long winter, these homely gems remind us of the damp, thawing earth and the new life that will soon appear.

Russian Lenten Mushroom Soup

• 15 oz fresh mushrooms, cleaned and sliced (porchini or shitake are ideal, but any mushrooms will work)
• 1/3 cup pearl barley
• 1 Tablespoon vegetable oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
• 2 medium ribs celery, chopped
• 1 carrot, peeled and chopped
• 1 cup green peas (fresh or frozen)
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 3 bay leaves
• 2 Tablespoons fresh dill (or 1 teaspoon dried)
• 6 black peppercorns
• 6 allspice berries
• salt & pepper
• sour cream to garnish

1. Cook the barley according to the directions on the package; just before it’s done, remove from heat and drain. Set aside.
2. In a saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat until shimmering. Cook the onions until translucent. Add the mushrooms, and cook until all the liquid from the mushrooms has evaporated.
3. While the mushrooms are cooking, add 10 cups water to a large soup pot bring it to a boil. Add the carrot and celery, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook 10 minutes.
4. Add the potatoes and mushroom mixture to the soup; cook until the potatoes begin to soften, about 8-10 minutes.
5. Stir in the barley and cook another 10 minutes. Once the potatoes are very soft, gently mash to break them down and thicken the broth.
6. Add the peas, garlic, herbs and spices, and salt to taste. Reduce heat and simmer gently for 2-3 minutes.
7. Before serving, stir a tablespoon of sour cream into each bowl.