In Due Season

During my search for Lenten foods, I discovered a wonderful, simple bean soup called fasolada (fassolatha). Sometimes called the national dish of Greece, it dates back to Ancient times, and has sustained the people of that nation throughout history. It is a common dish on Greek tables and a Lenten staple.

Simplicity is central to the season of Lent; however, this simplicity does not in my mind preclude delicious, carefully made, or “special” food. Lent is a time to be more mindful of our eating, and the traditions of special dishes can reinforce our connection to our food and help us to be more mindful of our meals. While our family has plenty of cheese quesadilla dinners, and many “every man for himself” leftovers/scrambled egg nights, the slow and careful preparation of the simplest soup and most basic bread centers us in a way that little else can.

Fasolada has adapted and evolved since its early days; modern recipes often include tomatoes, which were not available in ancient Greece. I decided to try a more ancient version of the soup, which I found on the site Antiquitynow.org. (I have a deep delight in historical foods!) The amount of olive oil in the recipe may seems like a mistake, but don’t skimp! And use a good quality oil if you can, since the flavor will be pronounced.

If you don’t have time to soak the beans overnight, the quick soak method works just fine; simply bring the washed and sorted beans to a boil in a large pan of water, then let sit, covered, for one hour. You can also substitute canned beans (approximately 60 oz canned for 2 cups dry.) But if you can, I recommend giving the long version of the recipe a try. Soaking the beans doesn’t add an appreciable amount of labor to the dish, but it does create an element of ritual that might bring you a deeper appreciation of the bounty of Creation, and the joyful gift of eating even the simplest of foods.

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Fasolada (Ancient Greek Bean Soup)

Adapted from the recipe on Antiquitynow.org

• 2 cups of dried white beans, such as Navy, Great Northern, or Cannellini
• 2 cups of water
• 1 cup olive oil
• 3 onions, finely chopped
• 2 cups of broth
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tablespoon of honey
• 1/2 teaspoon of ground coriander
• 1 bunch parsley, chopped
• 2 bay leaves
• salt and pepper

1. Soak the beans in water overnight, or by quick soak method.
2. Drain and rinse the beans, the put them in a large pan with water to cover. Add the bay leaves and bring to a boil. After five minutes, remove the beans from heat, cover, and let sit 1 hour.
3. Add the broth to the beans and their liquid. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook gently for 2 hours, or until the beans are very tender. (If too much of the broth cooks away, you can add a little more.)
4. While the beans are cooking, heat the olive oil in a saute pan. add the onions and cook until the onions are translucent. Add the parsley, coriander, and salt and pepper, and cook a few seconds more.
5. When the beans are tender, stir in the onion mixture and the honey. Check the seasoning. Heat for 5 more minutes.
6. Just before serving, stir in the garlic.